(05/12/2004)Coming up for air in Shantou, before we start the final sprint in Guangdong province. It was a good thing that we did not know the details of our trip in Fujian province, or we might not have gone.
I am sure there is something we missed, as our guide Mr. Wang says he has 63 tea farms. Yet in four days we drove close to 2,000 kilometers (you do the conversion into miles) over some of the worst roads imaginable. Yet it was worth it. The Wuyi mountains are very pretty. They are a national treasure, and in fact we almost could not enter. We had to get a special permit to go up to the home of Lapsang Souchong. There we saw free range tea. They cannot plant the tea plants. Where the plants grow, they grow. The tea factory has been handed down generation to generation. I used to think I did not like Lapsang, until I tasted some of their top of the line Wuyi Hong Cha. Needless to say some of that is coming to us.
We went to Da Hong Pao, a Buddihist shrine that is dedicated to tea. There is a chasm of black rocks with tea growing in the middle. This temple of tranquility was perfect.
The next morning we went down the Min river on the Nine turns trips. It was a little touristic, but the river meanders past some stunning black bluffs. Soon I will send some pictures.
After the Nine Turns, we went on a dash across rural Fujian province. It was the not so famous Three Hills. 7 hours of up and down past field after field of tea. It was truly like the author Bob Gardella wrote about in his book "Harvesting Mountains" It culimnated in a hairaising descent down dark one lane roads into Fuan. There we met the inventor of Dragon Pearl Jasmine and many of the floral art teas - she has the government patents to prove it. It was amazing to see her staff hand-tie these teas. She has some very pretty creations that we will be getting.
The next morning we went to another Bai Mudan plant that also did a wonderful Green tea that is similar to Silver Needles, but more flavorful. The company has one of the few Organic Bai Mudan fields. It is also nice because you can see the sea from the fields. I asked if the coastal fogs made for better tea (like in Napa valley). Unfortunately it was lost in translation, so I will just guess that it greatly improves the quality.
Finally we got on a decent road. There is an expressway that follows the coast (that is where all the money is spent). We took it south through tea fields and fishing villages. South of Fuzhou we turned inland to Nanan City, hometown of Mr. Wang. Here we were treated like royalty. Yet before that great meal we went to a tea finishing teas for a real treat. Mr. Wang had arranged (he should get a job as a tour director) for us to taste some very and I mean very special teas. There were several Ti Quan Yins. One was full of power, it reminded me of a great Montrachet wine from France. Mr. Wang said it was horribly expensive and so it was. Yet we had to have some, so I got thirty orders. I will be keeping a few for myself.
The next morning we went off to the home of Ti Quan Yin- Xi Ping. This was an idyllic village that has benefited from the Chinese obsession of paying a lot for Ti Quan Yin. After meeting his family (he has 25 generations in the tea business!), we went up to his house and and saw some of the production. It is the end of the season, so the quality was off. However, there we saw the origins of the tightly wrapped ball-oolongs also made in Taiwan.
That afternoon we left Fujian province for Shantou. In the morning, we went to Chao Zhou and met up with a wild man of tea. Dressed in a flamboyant black outfit, and shouting most of the time, we all thought he was a gangster. Later he gave us a tour of the Fenghaung (of Fenghuang Shuixian fame) area. He seemed to know everybody and he talked a lot about tea. The few words I know in Chinese are tea words. After a delicious meal of fried Tofu, fried sweet potatoes in honey, and a wonderful chicken, we went back to his tea shop in Chao Zhou. It was there that the layers were peeled back and he was revealed for being a tea lover. His shop is filled with tea antiques: both ancient pots and ancient teas. I figured out that Chao Zhou has a long tradition of tea. There were many tea shops that sell the greats teas of the Fenghuang area. Behind the dusty storefronts are many wonderful Chinese homes. It is one of the few cities that has preserved its outer defensive wall like so many charming European towns. Later on another layer was peeled away, the reason for all this respect for tradition was revealed … one of China's most famous Buddhist temples is there. Now people are locating there because of the charm and tradition. These people are bringing a renewed commitment to China's treasures. After further examination, this guy's outfit was actually based upon traditional Chinese clothes.
At his place we tasted some Fenghuangs - both this year's and some that were over 30 years old. They were great and we got some. Our wild man showed his sensitive side by giving a tour of the temple. It is over 1,000 years old, filled with large golden Buddhas. Then for our final dinner he took us to a vegetarian restaurant (remember Buddha wants no harm to animals) overlooking the temple. It was a modern restaurant, but one that respected China's past. It was something that I did not expect. However if there is one thing I have learned, it is that China and its people are wonderfully unpredictable. I shall miss them.
(5/4/2004) We have visited the Sencha region of Japan. I met with some of the best producers. It was the start of the season and it ends in a few days. Amazingly short. 
Japan's gardens are very pretty, going up the steep hills.
I bought some of the deep Steamed Sencha and a special Sencha from the Wazuka region. This Sencha is considered almost too sophisticated for Japanese.
In Taiwan, we visited a producer at 11 PM. he was just starting to wither (wilt) the leaf . After a half hour, it gets put in a bamboo shaker that starts the oxidation process. After another 1/2 hour they start to roll it (it smells so good!). Then into a turning oven. Later on they put into a a bag and tightly roll it and put it back into the oven. This is repeated up to 100 (yes 100) times to make the tight balls you find in our Ali San.
Speaking of which, we went to Ali San ( Ali Mountain) . I am please to say there is no exaggeration. It is up and and is a steep mountain covered with tea plants. They were out plucking today. Very Pretty.
We also visited Dong Ding mountain ( this is more of a high plateau) . We were being shown around by a young tea maker. While in Dong Ding we met with his grand father and found out that his family has been making tea in Dong Ding for over 150 years! So we bought some very nice Dong Ding and a special Li San Oolong.
Most of these teas will be sent to us later this month and we will have a special launch to celebrate fresh teas.
So we are off to Hong Kong, and then to Fujian and Guangdong Province. Lots of sitting our tails in cars and planes, but worth it to see very special teas and bring some home to our customers.
XOX
Mike
We are back from a fabulous trip to Japan. 
On the long
flight over, an airline attendant could not believe
that anyone would go to Japan for pleasure. I
respectfully disagree! We were warmly received, it was
both fascinating and enjoyable. Of course many
Japanese speak little English ( and I don't speak Japanese), yet it is easy to get
around and eat. Our business friends spoke enough
English for me to understand the joys of Japanese Tea.
Also there is the common language of tea tasting and
production.
My family was treated like royalty. Our hosts showed
us a Japan that few see. We stayed at an old style
Japanese Inn high in the mountains at Hot Spring.
We learned the obsession the Japanese have with baths.
My son Bert loved spending time at these public
baths. 
Any initial hesitancy was overcome. Later on we
slept along the banks of the famous Uji river, looking
across the rapids at the tranquil green hills,
surrounded by famous temples. It was one of the best
nights of my life. The food was always great. At the
Inns, we ate many seasonal foods beautifully
prepared. So it was a trip full of pleasure and
few problems.
The object of our trip was to learn more about
Japanese teas. I must report that the mission was
accomplished. We saw and tasted numerous teas. Our
hosts patiently explained the differences between
different teas and production styles. In Tokyo we were
recieved by a family that has been selling tea from
the same corner for over 100 years. I learned much
from their years of experience and greatly appreciated
their arranging the trip to Shizuoka. To be
accompanied by the President during the busy growing
season was an honor. We saw this years crop growing.
Then we tasted some of the first teas of this year. A
rare occurence. We went Kakegawa, capital of Shizuoka
teas. We toured the fields and saw the production
plants that ensure great teas. Again it was a very busy
time with the tea trading taking place at 3:30 in the
morning. Luckily we arrived slightly early in the
season, so we were able to spend some time with a very
friendly family of tea . They made us feel very
welcome.
In Uji, we attended the first auction of the this
year. It was an honor to see the best teas of Uji.
Later in the day, we saw the production of Matcha
(powdered green tea). It was a wonderful site to see --
60 of these machines grinding the teas into powder.
Almost as good as the 1001 golden statues at
Sangensando. We toured some the shaded fields of
Gyokuro. My son Bert was impressed that our host had a
tea garden right at his house. There were frank
discussions of current tensions in the Japanese teas,
of which I will explain later on.
I have learned much and know that I have much more to
comprehend. I will give more details of this great
trip later on.
We landed in Bagdogra Friday morning, and drove up into the mountains of Darjeeling. Our 1st stop was Okayti - the garden is busy making preparations to 
build a new factory. The current one has the honor of being the oldest tea factory in Darjeeling, but unfortunately it makes it most difficult to make the absolute greatest tea. After a snack with the Okayti garden manager it was back in the car for an evening drive to Chamong Tea Estate.
Chamong is a beautiful garden and we had the honor of sleeping in the Manager's bungalow that night. There is nothing quite like waking up on a tea estate. That soft sweet smell, which can only be Darjeeling.
Saturday morning we went on a wonderful tour of Chamong with the Group & Garden managers. Chamong is 100% Bio Organic and the teas they were producing represent just the end of the Banji (in between) period. As we drove through the garden we could see the start of the second flush leaves on the bushes. The factory was in top-flight condition with the new addition of a dehumidifying room which helps maintain their teas excellent quality. The room holds the tea before it is re-fired and packed. Reducing the percent of humidity from 2% to 1% A difference that helps make these teas stay fresh longer!
Sunday was a fantastic drive from Chamong to Lingia. We were lucky enough to be taken the back way, which gave a great feeling of the vertical nature of Darjeeling. The land is so steep it really is often amazing that they pick tea at all.
Lingia is a great garden. It is the one we selected for a First Flush. It is on its way to gaining its Bio Organic status, which takes 2 years to attain. Lingia is a great example of the steep angle of the terrain. The lowest section in the garden is approximately 3200 feet below their highest section. But they are striving to produce wonderfully consistent outstanding teas. We tasted some teas with the manager and it appears they are just about ready for the Second Flush. The teas were light in color and starting to soften in the cup. The professionalism and interest in producing the finest darjeelings was outstanding at all 3 estates. Sunday night we had a great dinner in Darjeeling and slept at the Planters Club in Darjeeling town.
On to Kolkata ...
Kolkata … such an active city with so much excitement. It is India's most populated city and these is an energy you can feel. We walked through the local markets and saw the largest tea tasting room in the world at J Thomas (auction house). It was a great day of walking around the city and getting used to the street sellers working the passer bys for every type of road side snack. From Chai to Grilled Corn on the Cob to Fresh Mangos … oh the Mangos. I could go on about the Mangos in India for hours. I think I have eaten at least ten since this trip began. On to Assam…
We are now in Assam .. the difference between Darjeeling and Assam is as striking as the landscape. From the vertical mountains of Darjeeling to the lush tropical flatlands of Assam. Assam again threw a slight wrench into our plans but due to the persistence of Mr. Wulf we continued on in spite of the ban on travel in all of Assam. The organization that called the ban was the United Liberation Front of Assam. The day before we left they had shot the leader of the ruling party in Assam … so we were in for some excitement.
Upon arriving in a Dibrugarh Airport in Assam, there was a sense of tension at the military airport with more soldiers milling around. But we were met by one of the older Assam families and 
Garden owner of Diksam Estate and others… K.K. Sharaia was there to meet us and put us into an ambulance car for the quick ride through the barricades to his wonderful palace. There was a temple on grounds and we had a great time talking tea and politics in Assam.
This morning we awoke and headed for Boisahabi Tea Estate on the Southern Banks of the Brahmaputra River. The Estate is located in the North Eastern region of Assam. It was about a 3 hour drive across the deep green fields of the region. In the distance to the South East you could see the Mountains that rise up from the lush plains. And just over those mountains is Burma.
We arrived at the end of the production day at the estate, but were able to see the CTC and select Orthodox teas being produced. The smells were somehow different than Darjeeling, more of a malty flavor in the factory. The factory produces about 22,000 lbs of Green Leaf per day, making 4,500 lbs of tea per day. Annual production is 1.4 million lbs. It is a beautifully situated garden with top class tea plants. The second flush leaves are just today starting to show up on the bushes, so perhaps by the time we return samples will be on their way home for us to taste.
Mr. Ashok Trivedi is the garden manager. He is a great man who has been in business for the past 27 years. He has managed this estate for the past 8 years. As he said today when we talked … "tea is not a job but a way of life." And the teas we tasted today were excellent for the Banji period.
... Paul has now returned from his travels. While we wait for a more detailed description of his travels in Vietnam, we know only that he visited just one garden, but he did learn quite a bit. We look forward to his bestowing his knowledge upon us.
We arrived to the organized chaos that is Shanghai; a huge city with a new skyscraper each week. There, in the middle of that muddle, we had tea at the Tea Garden.
The next morning we escaped to the garden city of Hangzhou. In the highlands above the city we toured the Lung Ching gardens. I gave a feeble attempt at making some of that fabulous tea. Be assured that we did not buy any of my tea.
In Hangzhou, we visited the Tea Museum. While viewing the splendid history of Chinese Tea, we were pleased and proud to see some tins of our own Queen Catherine tea. It is an honor to be the only Western tea in the Tea Museum.
Later we did a whirlwind tour of the famous Anhui province gardens. We started in the south, at the HuangShan (Yellow Mountains) which are well known teas in their own right, we drove down country lanes to Keemun. It was a restricted area (although no one knew why). There was a sign above the streets that states "Keemun is the most famous town of tea". The only city that might compete would be Darjeeling. We were amazed at the small scale of gardens and tea factories. No wonder Keemun Hao Ya A is so expensive.
After Keemun, we traversed several mountain ranges and landed at the tiny village of Red Peach. With the steep mountains and artisanal lifestyle, we felt that we had been transported to the Alps. We fell in love with the people and their organic tea, so we brought some of the tea back with us.
After that bucolic respite, it was back to the cities and the broiling heat. It was the life of a trade delegate: meetings, lunches and lots of toasts to eternal friendship. Luckily, the last day we visited the Tea Research Institute of Hunan and stumbled upon a great green tea: Ying Feng.
It was a great trip. Chinese was easy to learn, but impossible to remember. I look forward to returning to the Middle Kingdom.
